1967 B-40 WD
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When working on classic machines, you do not need lots of special equipment, though you do need the basics of course.
A good spanner set, socket wrench and sockets, some pullers, a valve spring compressor and - above all - quality screwdrivers with perfectly fitting heads...
That said, sometimes you need non-standard tools as well, but there' s some you can make quite easily.
However, this often requires some welding equipment.
When dismantling the clutch, you need something to lock the clutch when removing the central nut. If you have to replace the plates, you can use one of the driven plates to make a simple locking tool as seen in n°1.
Spanner n°2 was cut to fit the large nut on the mainshaft holding the final drive sprocket.
A spanner that size is way too thick, so an old spanner - thin enough to fit between engine case and sprocket - was cut to size.
N°3 is a puller to release the clutch centre, kindly made by a friend on his lathe. Now you can make a puller from scratch material to release the clutch centre - as I did with a normal puller, a suitable piece of tube ( the base of a cylinder liner of a car engine... ) and some bolts, but a regular puller as in n°3 works much better for sure...
N°4 is a handy tool when working on the front forks ( more about that later ) and n° 5 is a simple gudgeon pin removal tool.
When working on classic machines, you do not need lots of special equipment, though you do need the basics of course.
A good spanner set, socket wrench and sockets, some pullers, a valve spring compressor and - above all - quality screwdrivers with perfectly fitting heads...
That said, sometimes you need non-standard tools as well, but there' s some you can make quite easily.
However, this often requires some welding equipment.
When dismantling the clutch, you need something to lock the clutch when removing the central nut. If you have to replace the plates, you can use one of the driven plates to make a simple locking tool as seen in n°1.
Spanner n°2 was cut to fit the large nut on the mainshaft holding the final drive sprocket.
A spanner that size is way too thick, so an old spanner - thin enough to fit between engine case and sprocket - was cut to size.
N°3 is a puller to release the clutch centre, kindly made by a friend on his lathe. Now you can make a puller from scratch material to release the clutch centre - as I did with a normal puller, a suitable piece of tube ( the base of a cylinder liner of a car engine... ) and some bolts, but a regular puller as in n°3 works much better for sure...
N°4 is a handy tool when working on the front forks ( more about that later ) and n° 5 is a simple gudgeon pin removal tool.
Below: a drawing from the manual showing tool n°3 in use.
Below: another very simple - though effective - home-made tool is this valve spring compressor. I made it many years ago and it still works better than some of the cheaper "proper" compressors you can buy...
Do fit a soft cup or something between the valve and the screw to prevent damage ( shown here by a washer )
The head was made from an old spark plug socket.
Do fit a soft cup or something between the valve and the screw to prevent damage ( shown here by a washer )
The head was made from an old spark plug socket.
Below: timing side nearly finished.
Do check for wear on kickstart ratchet and spring. These often suffered badly...
Do check for wear on kickstart ratchet and spring. These often suffered badly...
Below: Nice new kickstart and gearchange lever fitted.
WD machines did not come with chromium plated parts, but they' re readily available and these machines sure look much better in civilianized trim.
Buying these parts new is usually cheaper than having the old ones re-chromed.
WD machines did not come with chromium plated parts, but they' re readily available and these machines sure look much better in civilianized trim.
Buying these parts new is usually cheaper than having the old ones re-chromed.
Below: A rolling stand was made to support the bike during assembly and the engine finally rejoined the frame.
Rear dampers were in good condition, but were painted and got new shiny dust-covers.
Rear dampers were in good condition, but were painted and got new shiny dust-covers.
