1967 B-40 WD
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Front forks were next.
New fork stanchions were found and new bronze bushes, seals, dust covers and rubber gaiters were ordered.
Lower legs - amazingly - were not damaged that bad and after sealing any holes, were put in the blasting cabinet.
The top sleeves with headlamp fitting needed some welding first, since a previous owner had fitted some heavyweight indicators and the holes he bored were cracked and had become rectangular in shape.
After welding, they were blasted and painted, as were the fork yokes.
Bearing cups were as new, but I fitted new balls and loosely assembled the steering head - including the sleeves.
The new stanchions were cleaned from their protective coating and the upper half was sprayed in a zinc coating to prevent rusting and fitted to the steering head. Dust covers, oil seal holders ( with seals fitted ) and bushes followed.
Front forks were next.
New fork stanchions were found and new bronze bushes, seals, dust covers and rubber gaiters were ordered.
Lower legs - amazingly - were not damaged that bad and after sealing any holes, were put in the blasting cabinet.
The top sleeves with headlamp fitting needed some welding first, since a previous owner had fitted some heavyweight indicators and the holes he bored were cracked and had become rectangular in shape.
After welding, they were blasted and painted, as were the fork yokes.
Bearing cups were as new, but I fitted new balls and loosely assembled the steering head - including the sleeves.
The new stanchions were cleaned from their protective coating and the upper half was sprayed in a zinc coating to prevent rusting and fitted to the steering head. Dust covers, oil seal holders ( with seals fitted ) and bushes followed.
Above: new ( far left ) and old stanchions. Badly pitted surface on these old legs would sure make for an oily fountain...
At right is the fork leg removal and assembly tool ( n°4 as seen on previous page ) in use.
At right is the fork leg removal and assembly tool ( n°4 as seen on previous page ) in use.
As it can be a real pain to remove or fit the fork stanchions when they are fully assembled, you can make a tool from an old fork top nut.
Remove its head using a hacksaw and fit a bolt in the inner thread ( normally used to hold the damper rod )
Screw it on the stanchion and hit the bolt with a mallet to remove the stanchion from the steering head ( don' t forget to loosen the screws in the bottom yoke ! ).
When re-fitting the stanchion, screw-in the tool, slide the stanchion upwards in the yokes and grab the bolt with some mole grips or similar to pull it up.
A completely assembled fork leg - including spring and rubber gaiter - will never allow you to do this easily without this simple tool...
Though the tool is shown only partly inserted in the photograph above, do screw it in completely to prevent damage to the thread inside the stanchion when hit with a mallet.
Remove its head using a hacksaw and fit a bolt in the inner thread ( normally used to hold the damper rod )
Screw it on the stanchion and hit the bolt with a mallet to remove the stanchion from the steering head ( don' t forget to loosen the screws in the bottom yoke ! ).
When re-fitting the stanchion, screw-in the tool, slide the stanchion upwards in the yokes and grab the bolt with some mole grips or similar to pull it up.
A completely assembled fork leg - including spring and rubber gaiter - will never allow you to do this easily without this simple tool...
Though the tool is shown only partly inserted in the photograph above, do screw it in completely to prevent damage to the thread inside the stanchion when hit with a mallet.
Meanwhile, work had started on the mudguards.
Indicators had been fitted in crudely made holes in the rear one, what - due to vibration - resulted in large cracks.
I cut out the damaged area - including the edge - and trimmed a sheet of metal to fit. After gas- welding it in place, work on the many dents, ripples and deep scratches could start...
When finished and after sandblasting, any leftover dents were filled and smoothed down.
I always use different coloured primers and surfacers, so it is easy to see were you' re going, as seen in the image above - showing the rear end of the mudguard.
Also, filler shouldn' t exceed 1mm of thickness ( unless it is in a very small area such as - former - rust pits ) , so the metal surface should be near perfect before starting to put paint or filler on.
Mudguards were sprayed in the same black paint as frame and forks and a new wiring harness and other stuff was fitted.
Indicators had been fitted in crudely made holes in the rear one, what - due to vibration - resulted in large cracks.
I cut out the damaged area - including the edge - and trimmed a sheet of metal to fit. After gas- welding it in place, work on the many dents, ripples and deep scratches could start...
When finished and after sandblasting, any leftover dents were filled and smoothed down.
I always use different coloured primers and surfacers, so it is easy to see were you' re going, as seen in the image above - showing the rear end of the mudguard.
Also, filler shouldn' t exceed 1mm of thickness ( unless it is in a very small area such as - former - rust pits ) , so the metal surface should be near perfect before starting to put paint or filler on.
Mudguards were sprayed in the same black paint as frame and forks and a new wiring harness and other stuff was fitted.
Above: trial fitting the rear mudguard.
I also needed a new license plate holder ( the old one was very rusty and bent ), so a replacement one from a Triumph was bought and a new - much lighter - rear light was fitted.
As can be seen, the front end was nearing completion as well...
I also needed a new license plate holder ( the old one was very rusty and bent ), so a replacement one from a Triumph was bought and a new - much lighter - rear light was fitted.
As can be seen, the front end was nearing completion as well...
It nearly started to look like a motorcycle again - without wheels - so in between other work, these came next on the agenda...
Before dismantling the wheels, everything was measured and noted down to prevent headaches later and I made some line- drawings as seen below.
To keep overall cost down, I decided to paint the wheelrims rather than having them re-chromed or fitting new ( stainless steel ) ones, so they were sandblasted, sprayed in zinc- primer and surfacer and finally got a nice black finish. Brake drums, back plates and hubs got the same treatment.
New bearings were fitted and new spokes were ordered.
A simple wheel truing stand was made and soon, I started lacing both wheels ...
Before dismantling the wheels, everything was measured and noted down to prevent headaches later and I made some line- drawings as seen below.
To keep overall cost down, I decided to paint the wheelrims rather than having them re-chromed or fitting new ( stainless steel ) ones, so they were sandblasted, sprayed in zinc- primer and surfacer and finally got a nice black finish. Brake drums, back plates and hubs got the same treatment.
New bearings were fitted and new spokes were ordered.
A simple wheel truing stand was made and soon, I started lacing both wheels ...
Below: the finished rear wheel with a new Dunlop TT100 fitted.
I' d like to replace this tyre with a bigger one soon though.
I' d like to replace this tyre with a bigger one soon though.
